Mardi Himal trek — the ridge above Pokhara
Five to six days on a high forested ridge climbing to about 4,500 m at Mardi Himal Base Camp, with Machhapuchhre standing directly overhead for most of the walk. Opened as a teahouse route only in the last decade, it is the best short-to-medium trek in Nepal for people who want the views without the Annapurna crowds.
Mardi Himal barely existed as a teahouse trek fifteen years ago. It runs up a ridge that sits between the Annapurna Sanctuary approach and the Seti valley, and because the lodges are recent, the whole route feels newer, quieter and less industrialised than its neighbours.
The selling point is simple: you walk along the top of a ridge with Machhapuchhre — the sacred, unclimbed Fishtail — filling the sky ahead of you. Few treks anywhere give you that much mountain for that little effort.
The route at a glance
Up through rhododendron forest to a ridge, then along and up the ridge to High Camp and the viewpoint towards Mardi Himal Base Camp, and back down to a road head near Pokhara.
- Duration — 5–6 days from Pokhara.
- Highest point — around 4,500 m at the upper viewpoint / Base Camp area. Highest sleep — High Camp, around 3,550 m.
- Start — Kande or Phedi, about an hour from Pokhara. Finish — Sidhing or Lumre.
- Difficulty — moderate. A steady climb rather than staircases, with one long summit day.
- Best seasons — October to December and March to May.
- Crowds — far lower than Poon Hill or ABC, though rising each year.
The itinerary
The structure is a slow climb up a ridge, one big day at the top, and a fast descent.
- Day 1 — Drive to Kande, walk up to Australian Camp and on to Pothana or Deurali (about 2,100 m).
- Day 2 — Along the ridge through dense, mossy rhododendron and oak forest to Forest Camp (about 2,600 m). Atmospheric and enclosed — you see almost no mountains all day.
- Day 3 — Forest Camp to Low Camp (about 2,970 m) and on to High Camp (about 3,550 m). The forest opens and Machhapuchhre appears abruptly. This is the moment the trek delivers.
- Day 4 — Pre-dawn to the upper viewpoint and towards Mardi Himal Base Camp (around 4,500 m), then back to High Camp or down to Low Camp.
- Day 5 — Long descent to Sidhing and a jeep to Pokhara.
What makes this ridge different
Most Nepali treks walk up valleys, so your view is bounded by the walls on either side until you reach the head of it. Mardi walks along the top of a ridge, which means that from Low Camp upwards you have Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhre and Mardi Himal in view continuously, with the valleys dropping away on both sides.
It also means the weather is on you. There is no shelter on the upper ridge, cloud arrives fast in the afternoon, and the summit-day path is narrow with steep ground either side in places. In poor visibility or on snow it becomes a genuinely serious walk rather than a straightforward one.
Start early on summit day, and be prepared to turn around at the upper viewpoint rather than pushing to Base Camp if the weather closes in. The view from the viewpoint is most of the view anyway.
Permits and cost
The same Annapurna-region permits, and a cheap trek to run overall.
- ACAP — Rs 3,000 for foreign nationals plus 13% VAT.
- TIMS card — around Rs 2,000.
- A licensed guide for foreign trekkers.
- Teahouse living — roughly Rs 2,500–4,000 a day, rising at High Camp where everything is carried up.
- No flight, no long bus journey, no restricted-area paperwork.
Where to stay
The lodges here are newer than on the classic routes, but there are fewer of them, and High Camp in particular fills up in peak season.
- Australian Camp / Pothana / Deurali (2,000–2,100 m) — comfortable, easy first night with a good sunset.
- Forest Camp (about 2,600 m) — a handful of lodges in deep forest. Damp, atmospheric, cold at night.
- Low Camp (about 2,970 m) — where the mountains appear. Several lodges, good position.
- High Camp (about 3,550 m) — the key overnight for summit day. Limited beds; book ahead in October and November or be prepared to sleep at Low Camp and start much earlier.
- Water is scarcer on a ridge than in a valley, and lodges above Low Camp carry or pipe it a long way. Expect to pay more for it and use it carefully.
Mardi versus Poon Hill versus ABC
These three treks compete for the same visitor, and the choice is genuinely about what you want.
- Poon Hill (4–5 days, 3,210 m) — easiest, lowest, most comfortable, busiest. Best if you have under a week or are unsure about altitude.
- Mardi Himal (5–6 days, about 4,500 m) — best views per day, quietest of the three, moderate altitude. Best if you have six days and reasonable fitness.
- Annapurna Base Camp (7–12 days, 4,130 m) — the most complete experience, deepest into the mountains, and the only one that puts you inside a sanctuary. Best if you have a fortnight.
- All three use the same permits and the same Pokhara base, so a shortlist can be decided late.
Key takeaways
- ✓5–6 days from Pokhara to about 4,500 m, on a ridge with Machhapuchhre in view for most of it.
- ✓Quieter than Poon Hill and ABC because the teahouse route is recent — though it is getting busier every year.
- ✓The upper ridge is exposed with no shelter: start early on summit day and turn back if cloud arrives.
- ✓High Camp (about 3,550 m) has limited beds — book ahead in October and November.
- ✓Same ACAP and TIMS permits as the rest of the Annapurna region; no flight and no restricted-area paperwork.
Mardi Himal Trek — FAQ
How hard is the Mardi Himal trek?+
Moderate. It is a steady ridge climb rather than the stone staircases of Poon Hill, but summit day is long and reaches around 4,500 m on exposed ground. Reasonable fitness and a sensible early start are what it asks for.
How many days is the Mardi Himal trek?+
Five to six days from Pokhara, including road transfers at both ends. It can be compressed to four by driving higher at the start, but that reduces acclimatisation before the 4,500 m summit day.
Is Mardi Himal better than Poon Hill?+
For views and quiet, yes. Mardi walks along a ridge with Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South in sight continuously, and sees far fewer trekkers. Poon Hill is easier, lower, shorter and more comfortable, which makes it the better choice if you have under five days or are uncertain about altitude.
What permits do I need for Mardi Himal?+
The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) at around Rs 3,000 for foreign nationals plus 13% VAT, and a TIMS card at around Rs 2,000, both issued in Pokhara. Foreign trekkers also need a licensed guide.
Do you need to book High Camp on Mardi Himal?+
In October and November, yes — High Camp has limited beds and fills. Guides phone ahead as a matter of course. The alternative is sleeping at Low Camp and starting summit day considerably earlier.
Related guides
Sources & data note
Day-by-day structure, walking times, teahouse cost ranges and difficulty judgements are our own synthesis of the route dataset behind this site, park and tourism-board information and consistent trekker reporting. They are planning estimates for a reasonably fit walker in a normal season, not published figures, and your itinerary should be built with a licensed guide who knows current trail and lodge conditions. Permit fees are quoted as base fees before 13% VAT; confirm at the issuing counter. Mardi Himal is a recent teahouse route and altitude figures for High Camp and the upper viewpoint are quoted inconsistently across sources; the values here are the commonly reported ranges rather than surveyed elevations. Guides are written from primary sources — Nepali government departments, operators, park authorities and standards bodies — and each guide lists the sources used for its own facts. Rules, fees and prices in Nepal change; treat figures as current at the review date shown on each guide and verify anything money- or visa-critical with the issuing authority before you rely on it.
- Nepal Tourism Board — official site (trekking and trekker information)Nepal Tourism Board ↗
- Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation — parks and entry feesDNPWC, Government of Nepal ↗
- Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN)TAAN ↗
- High-Altitude Travel and Altitude Illness — CDC Yellow BookUS Centers for Disease Control and Prevention ↗
- Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal — altitude aid posts and adviceHimalayan Rescue Association ↗
- Nepal trekking permits and fees (2026)Follow Alice ↗
- National Trust for Nature Conservation — Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP)NTNC ↗