Khana khanu bhayo? — Nepali greetings explained

Literally 'have you eaten food?', and used roughly where an English speaker says 'how are you?'. It is asked by neighbours, colleagues, shopkeepers and people you have just met.

The logic is straightforward once stated: in a society where feeding people is the central act of care and where food security was historically precarious, asking whether someone has eaten is asking whether they are all right.

The expected answer is yes — 'khaye' (I ate) or 'khaisake' (I've already eaten) — regardless of whether it is strictly true. Saying no is a genuine signal that you would like to be fed, and in a Nepali home it will produce food immediately.

'Where are you going?' — asked of anyone walking past, by people who have no particular interest in the answer.

It functions as an acknowledgement rather than an interrogation, closer to 'alright?' in British English. In a village, where everyone's movements are common knowledge anyway, it is simply the local form of hello.

You do not owe a precise answer. 'Bazaar' or 'ghumna' (for a wander) or just gesturing up the trail is completely adequate. On a trek you will be asked this fifty times a day and 'Namche!' is a perfectly good answer.

Within a few minutes of meeting, Nepalis may ask your age, your marital status, whether you have children, your job and what you earn. From a Western frame this is startlingly direct.

It is not nosiness. Nepali social interaction depends on placing people — age determines the respect level of the verbs, marital and family status determines how someone relates to you, and occupation situates them. The questions are the social equivalent of exchanging business cards.

You can answer honestly or vaguely and neither is rude. 'Not married yet' is understood; a rough salary figure or 'enough' both work. If you would rather not answer, deflect with a smile and a question back — Nepalis are as happy to talk about themselves as anyone.

'Are you well?' — the closest thing to a direct English 'how are you', and slightly more formal. The answer is 'sanchai chhu' (I am well).

'Ke chha?' (के छ?) is the casual version — 'what's up?' — used with friends and people your own age or younger. The stock answer is 'thik chha' (it's fine) or 'thikai chha' (so-so).

Note that a Nepali 'thik chha' does the same work as an English 'not bad': it is a conversational closing, not a health report.

Useful for the moment when you need to move on politely.